
COMPILED BY 

f(\r. ar?d f[\r% p. ^BUDDIffQBOff. 

Designed for all those interested in our Machine, who are 
desirous of perfecting- themselves in the 
i) Science of Garment Cutting. 

Price, Post Paid, $1.00. 



FIRST EJDITIOM. 



-A-EUDISESS 



" JUL291F 



Op WASH\^ V 



& 



and Mrs. F. E. BUDD1NGT0N, 

21 08 WABASH AVENUE, 

CHICAGO, ILL., IT. S. A. 



^"Entered according to act of Congress, 1887, by Mr. and Mrs. F. E. Buddington, in C (Q?fik 
Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. D. ( '. i-'&<'(v@$A 




MlffTOl 




This Book is designed for any and all those who have learned to use the Bucldington 
Dress Cutting - Machine, and not for those who do not first understand its use, as per 
instructions given in our first Instruction Book, which goes free with each Machine. 

We have for some time past seen the need of this Book of Supplement Studies, but 
the constantly increasing pressure of business, has made it impossible for us to prepare such a 
book until the present time. The experience of Mrs. F. E. Buddington, for many years, as 
a first-class cutter, enables us to combine practical knowledge with Scientific rules, in such a 
manner as to give the most satisfactory results. 

Our Machine has gained such rapid success, that there is to-day, very few towns or 
villages in our broad land, where it has not a name, as first, among systems of Dress Cutting, 
and in very many of our largest cities, in leading houses, all other methods of cutting have 
been discarded, and the Buddington Machine has the preference, and is used exclusively. 

This Book is illustrated with diagrams, with accompanying instructions, which with a 
little careful study will enable those using our Machine to draft correctly, and without re-bast- 
ing, any and all garments worn by Ladies or Children. We have nothing to do with Men's 
or Boy's garments. 

With sincere thanks for past patronage and present enthusiasm, we are 

Sincerely Yours, 

Jilji^. C*1*L-cL d^tsiu. CT. (O, IdsUscLcLvvi.Gs'Co-VL' , 

2108 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO, ILL,, U. S. A. 



COPYRIGHTED, 1887. 



^^^g^^J> 



icz>r^j+-»- 



****v»** **■****•*» **»,**,*-»* 



The undersigned is Patentee, Proprietor and Sole Manufacturer of the Buddhigtotl 
Dress Cutting Machine, Patented Feb. 13, 1883, Copyrighted Dec. 28, 1880 and April 
38, 1S84. Any person manufacturing, imitating or infringing on the said Dress Cutting 
Machine in any way, will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law. 

jE 1 . :e. BTJ^HDin^c^rronsr. 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



TAKING THE MEASURE. 



Tie a large cord tightly around the waist and push it down as low as you wish the waist 
of dress to come. 

1 — NECK MEASURE is taken around neck, inside collar, tight. (See measure 1 in 
Fig. 1 and 2.) 

2. — ABM'S EYE is taken around arm, about one inch below point of shoulder bone, 
very tight. (See 2 in Fig. 1 and 2.) N. B — This is a very important measure, and if taken 
too loose will not fit, when taken correct is seldom larger than neck measure and usually 
smaller. 

3. — BUST MEASURE is taken smoothly around fullest part of bust and raised slightly 
in back. (See B in Fig. i and 2.) N. B. — Care should be taken that tape line is not allowed 
to slip and thus the bust measure taken too tight. 

■i.— WAIST MEASURE is taken around the lowest part of waist tight. (See 4 in Fig. 
1 and 2.) 

5. — FRONT MEASURE i* taken from prominent bone in back of neck to waist line 
in center of front. (See 5 and 6 in Fig. 1 and 2.) 

6. — HEIGHT OF DARTS. While taking front measure, and before moving tape, 
notice where tape strikes fuller part of bust. (See 6 in Fig. 1.) 

7. — BACK MEASURE is taken from prominent bone in back of neck to waist line in 
center of back. (See 7 in Fig. 2.) 

8. — WIDTH OF BACH is taken from exactly center of one arm's eye across back to 
center of the other. (See 8 in Fig 2.) 

Q. — UNDER ARM MEASURE is taken from high up under arm, while arm rests 
naturally by side, to waist line at side. (See 9 in Fig. 1 shows measure a little too far front; 
it should be directly under the arm.) N B. — It is a good plan to have a loop sewed in end of 
tape, and with a lead pencil thrust through, hold the pencil crosswise under the arm and push 
it up as far as you can, 

10. — SHOULDER MEASURE is taken from side neck where neck joins body, to one- 
fourth inch below point shoulder bone. (See 10 in Fig. 1 and 2.) 

11. — HIP MEASURE is taken four inches below waist, loose. (See 11 in Fig. 1 and 2.) 

12. — SHOULDER TO ELBOW MEASURE is taken from point of shoulder to elbow 
— hand resting on front waist. 

13. — LENGTH OF SLEEVE is taken from shoulder bone, to one and one-half inches 
above bone at wrist, around outside point of elbow — hand resting on waist. 

14. — ELBOW MEASURE is taken around elbow; easy measure — not tight. 

15.— WRIST MEASURE is taken around wrist — tight. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



II 



icz>r^js*-i- 



For Using and Handling 



The Buddington Dress Cutting Machine. 



•»*1fc"V*** ****•»*■** fcj^lt*-** 



It is in three nieces: Back Piece, Front Piece and Dart Rnle. On the two former are 
the neck, arm's eye, bast, waist, back, front and under-arm measures. On Dart Rule will be found 
arm's eye, neck and dart calculations and sleeve measures. The upright and horizontal pieces 
of metal that form the front and back pieces of the Machire, and on which are found the 
numbers used to set the slides to any given measure from which you may desire to draft, are 
called "bars." For instance the front bar has tlie front measure, the bust bar has the bust 
measure, etc. 

FIG. 1. FIG. 2. 





V^fcFM^U" **■* .*V*U»1i**T*J^* 



Measures for 5Draftttic|< 



LADIES MEASURE. 

MEASUBE FOB WAIST. 

Neck 13 X 

Arm's Eye 13 X 

Bast 38 *X 

Waist 25 * 

Front 20 

Height of Dart 13V£ 

Back 16* 

Width of Back 12^ 

Under Arm 8 X 

Shoulder 6 * 

Hips 40 

Measures used to SET the Back, * 
Measures used to SET the Front, X. 

MEASUBE FOB SLEEVE. 

Arm's Eye 13 

Shoulder to Elbow 14 

Around Elbow 12 

Shoulder to Wrist 22 

Around Wrist 6 



LADIES SKIRT. 

Belt 

Length of Front.. 

Length of Back 

Half Size at Bottom 



.28 
.40 
.42 
.44 



CHILDREN'S MEASURE 

Neck 

Arm's Eye 

Bust 

Waist 

Back 

Under Arm 

Shoulder 

Hips 

child's sleeve. 

Arm's Eye 

Shoulder to Elbow 

Shoulder to Wrist 

Around Wrist 



9 X 
8 X 

24 *X 
23 * 
12 * 

5^X 

3K * 
30 

8 

9 

14 

5 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Miscellaneous Information. 



Variations* 

1. — For large forms, where bust measure is more than 38, raise lower eud of shoulder 
line £ inch for each two measures above 38, thus, for £0 bust, raise lower end of shoulder £ 
inch, \ for £2, etc. The line must not be raised a particle at neck, nor should shoulder line 
ever be curved in drafting. 

2. — Dot 2 on waist line should be placed £ inch nearer the back bar, for each waist 
measure less than 2£, and ^ inch nearer side bar for each waist measure greater than 24 
Thus: if waist be 23j place dot 2, & inch nearer the back bar, thus making center back 
narrower, if waist measure be 26, make center back \ inch wider, etc. 



■ ******* a*****-** **•»*** ** 



a Word to tfte ladies* 

You have purchased our Cutting Machine, have tested it thoroughly, and found it all 
and more than represented. It costs you including Book, Machine and Lessons, only $5.00. 
You think it cheap and so it is; but you have not all that belongs to this Machine yet. There 
is a large circular and a wholesale price list /ree to every person who own this book. It is 
only kept at our office, and is received by addressing Mr. & Mrs. F. E. Buddington, 2108 
Wabash Avenue, Chicago, 111. When writing us make every letter plain and distinct in your 
Name, also City, State, County and No. of Street, or P. 0. Box. As we wish to give our 
Agents credit for all the good work they do, please tell us when writing of whom you learned, 
and always enclose a two cent stamp. Write at once. 

w**"** ■**•****"** *,*»*****" 

Xletaif 1?rice fclst* 

Buddington Dress Cutting Machine with book $3.00. 

Buddington Dress Cutting Machine with book and Lessons 5.00. 

Extra Instruction Book (same as others) 50. 

Extra Dart Rule (same as others) 50, 

Tracing Wheel (steel) , 50. 

Tape Line (linen) 10. 

Tape Line (sewed satteen) , 50. 

Measure Book (every Dress Maker should have one 50, ' 

Supplement Studies 1.00. 

For Agents' price list and large circular send two cent stamp. Agents wanted every- 
where, and as the Machine is THE system, it will be a good article for lady and gentlemen 
agents to handle. 

On receipt of price, any of the above articles will be sent to any address, post paid (except 
Machine which is sent by express.) 

v**^**** ■*■*** ****** * ■ *,. * 

Mow to Send JVfotteg* 

It is best to send the full amount of money with your order, as goods are sent C. 0. D. 
unless fully paid for, which makes them cost from 25c. to 75c. more. If order is less than 
$5.00, get a Postal Note, if order is over $5.00, get a Post Office Money Order, Registered 
Letter, or Draft on Chicago or New York. 

Aloxiey Sent as above a-t Our Risb.. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



Fig. 3. -BACK DIAGRAM. 




©trectiotis for 3Drafttwcj JScicft* 

1. — The back piece is an entire pattern to the back waist form, 
''which is set as follows: (Notice. — A bar is a piece on which will be 
found the different measures.) Back bar is the long piece on which 
will be found back measure. Set the slide which runs over the back 
figures to back measure you wish to draft from, u}iper end of slide rest- 
ing on said measure. 

2. Move bust bar down to the word "Whole No." (This is done 
to allow shoulder to be set.) 

3. — Place thumb on prominent point at lower end of shoulder bar, 
drawing it down until you pee the number of shoulder measure. 
4.— In same manner set bust and waist to required measure. 
5. — Move bust bar up to lower end of arm's eye bar. Care must 
always be taken to do this, or back will be too broad. 

Q. — Now glance over your measures, and if all are in position, lay 
your drafting paper (which should be sufficiently long for ordinary 
basque— say thirty inches) on table; place your Machine one and one- 
half inches from front edge of paper, and one-half inch from top, mark 
entirely around outside of Machine and across lower side of waist bar. 

7. — Now make dots as follows: Dot 1, at mark on shoulder bar, 
about two and one-half inches from neck and, dot 2, at mark on waist 
bar. — (See diagram.) 
8.— Turn Machine neck towards you. and with edge of back bar as a rule finish waist line, 
and make dot 3, on waist line one-half inch inside back line. This distance can be procured by 
using lowest end of under-arm bar. (See variations page 4.) 

9. — Move Machine towards yon until inside of back bar. rests on outside of back line, and 
lower side of bust bur rests on waist line, and make dot 4, opposite lower edge of waist bar and 
outside back bar. 

10. — Make dot 5 at the other end of waist bar, inside of under arm bar. 
11. — Move Machine directly from you until dot 5 rests on outside of back bar and make 
dot 6 at end of waist bar as before. Dots £, 5 and 6 are in a straight line and at equal dis- 
tances apart. (See diagram for back.) 

12. — Now draw line from dot 1 straight across dot 2 to bottom of paper. Draw line from 
junction .of back and neck line to dot 3» from dot 3 across dot 4, from dot 2 across dot 5, draw 
line from dot 2 into arms-eye by turning dart rule over, small end down, to get the curve. 
Striking arm's eye 1£ inches above lowest point. 

13. — Draw straight line A from arm's eye to roundest part of side form, about two inches 
below arm-eye. (Distance between line A and B at arm's eye, should be from £ to \ inch.) 

14. — "Now use Dart Rule, by turning it over (back up) and placing A corner at junction of 
waist and under-arm line, and draw line around dart curve so it will cross dot 6. Study dia- 
gram as vour drafting will be the same if correct. 

15. — Draw curved lines from dot 2 and 3, three inches down and one-fourth out, then 
straight witli line. (Sec dotted lines in diagram.) 



6 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 4.-FRONT DIAGRAM. 



drafting for Front ♦ 

1. — Lay front of Machine flat on paper and pro- 
ceed as follows: 

2. — Set neck slide according to Neck measure. 

3. — Set upper edge of Bust bar on arm's eye 
measure. 

<£. — Place band at junction of waist and front bar 
and move waist bar down until under-arm measure 
rests on upper edge of Bust bar. For instance if under- 
arm measure is 3 inches, lot the Fig. 8 stamped on 
under-arm bar, rest ou upper edge of Bust bar. 

5. — Place hand on under-arm bar, centrally be- 
tween bust and waist bars, and set bust slide accord- 
ing to bust measure. 

g. — Place Machine 1^ inch from edge of paper 
(glance over measure to see if all are set correctly) 
and mark with pencil down outside of front bar, then 
across neck bar, continuing line length of shoulder 
measure. (Stop line at shoulder measure.) If Bust 
measure be more than 38, raise lower end of shoulder 
line J inch for each added measure. (See variations, 
in directions for using back of Machine.) Shoulder 
line should also be raised a trifle, at lower end, for 
high or square shoulders. 
7. — Draw line across upper edge of bust bar, then down whole length outside under-arm 
bar and ielotv waist bar. 

8. — Draw line below wire curve for height of darts. Care should be taken not to move the 
Machine while marking the above lines. 

9.— Without moving Machine make dot 1, on front line opposite Front measure. Front 
measure is found on lower part of front bar. 

10.— Make dot 2, on bust line at mark on bust slide. If bust measure is more than 38, 
place dot 2. forward on bust line & inch for each measure above 38. Thus, if bust be 40. place 
dot forward \ inch, if bust be 42, place dot 2 forward | inch, etc. 

11.— Place hand on under-arm bar, and slide it until dot 2 is outside of said bar, then draw 
line from dot 2, down length of under-arm bar. 

12.— With front bar draw new waistline from dot 1, to waist and side line. 
13.— Place lower point of under-arm bar on new waist line, with line from dot 2, at centre 
of bar. and make dots 3 and 4 at each corner of bar, on waist line. (See diagram.) 

14.— Now use Dart Rule to finish drafting, and make dot 5, seven inches below waist line, 
under dot 2. 

15. — Make dots 6 and 7 one and one-fourth inches each side of dot 5. 
16.— Lay long side of rule outside of under-arm line, B corner two inches below waistline, 
and make dot 8 at letter Q, at short side of rule. 

17.— Place A corner (back up) at junctions of waist and under-arm line, and draw curved 
line across dot Q. in same manner draw curved line from dot 3 across dot 6. 




TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. -J 

18* — Turn rule over and draw curved line from dot 4» across dot 7. 

19. — Draw straight lines from dots 3 and 4 to dot 2. 

20. — Place B corner at dot 1, short side on waist line, and make dot 9 at star. (See first 
space on Dart Rule.) If waist measure be less than 24, dot 9 should be placed nearer front 
line, making first space smaller. 

21. — Without moving rule, make dot 10 according to waist and bust measure; this is done 
by finding waist measure in waist column; then trace to the right to bust measure, then down 
in column, making dot 10 on waist line under bust measure. 

22. — Make dot H centrally between clots 9 and 10. 

23. — Place letter on dot 10 (See second space) and make dot 12 at star, and dot 13 
according to waist and bust measure as before. If waist measure be less than 2*1, dot 12 
should be nearer dot 10, thus, making second space smaller. 

21- — Make dot 14 between dots 12 and 13. 

25-— Square short side of rule on bust line and draw straight line from wire curve to dot H- 

26. — In same manner draw line to dot 14. 

27. — Place A corner at upper end of last lines drawn, and draw curved lines to dots 9 and 
10, 12 and 13. 

28- — Place short side of rule on new waist line, B corner resting at dot 11, and draw straight ■ 
line ten inches downward from dot 11, and draw straight lines from dots 9 and 10 to this 
point. In like manner, with B corner resting at dot 14, and short side of rule on new waist 
line, draw lines from dots 14, 12 and 13- (See diagram.) 

29. — Draw line from junction of waist and side line so it will strike \ inch in at bust line. 
(See dotted line in diagram.) 

30. — Measure side line in back drafting from waist to arm's eye, and make dot 15 on new 
side line in front drafting the same distance above waist line; for instance, if length of side 
line in back drafting is nine inches; make dot 15 nine inches above waist line. 

31. — Lav long side of rule on bust line, B corner at junction of bust and under-arm line, 
and make dot 16 on bust line according to arm's eye measure. (See arm's eye measure for 
waist on Dart Rule.) 

32- — Draw curved line from dot 15 to 16> so it will curve \ inch below bust line, using 
front arm curve. X. B. — If arm's eye be less than I2, 8 it will not curve any below bust line. 

33. — Continue line from dot 16 to lower point of shoulder line, giving line a good curve, 
as in diagram. 

34- — Place D corner at upper point of shoulder line, with neck measure resting on front 
line, and draw neck line around front neck curve. 

35. — Make dot 17, f inch outside front line opposite top second dart. 

36. — Draw straight lines from junction of front and neck line to dot 17, and from dot 17 
to dot 1. 

37- — Make dot 18 one-fourth inch outside front line and six inches below waist line 
Draw line from clot 1 to 18 continuing line parallel with front line from dot 18. 

38- — Make dot 19, three inches below point of shoulder on arm curve for large, and two 
and one-half inches for small arms. (See dot 19 in diagram.) 

39. — Make dot 20 one inch in from dot 19- 

40. — Now draw new curved line from dot 16 to dot 20, then to point of shoulder. (See 
dotted line in diagram.) 



8 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 5. -DRAFTING THE SLEEVE. 




1.— Place Dart Rule two inches from front edge of paper and draw 
line A whole length of paper. 

2. — Place short side of rule on line A, and draw line B across top 
of paper, 

3. — Without moving rule make dots 1 and 2 on line B according 
to Arm's Eye measure. (See Arm's Eye and Elbow Measure on Dart 
Rule are double.) For instance, if Arm's Eye is 13, make dot 1 at 13 
and dot 2 at 13, found four inches from the first. 

<£. — Make dot 3» two and one-half inches below dot 2- 
5. — Make dot <£, two inches below dot 1. 
6.— Place long side of rule on front line, B corner, at junction 
of lines A and B, and make dot 5 Ave inches below line B. (If arm's 
eye be less than 13, and more than H, place dot 5 four and one-half 
inches below line B, if less than H, it should be only four inches be- 
low line B-) 

7. — Without moving rule, make dot 6 below line B. Shoulder to 
Elbow measure on line A. 
8. — Place short side of rule on line A» and draw line C from dot 6 across paper. 
9. — Without moving rule make clots 7 and 8 according to elbow measure, and dot 9 one 
inch from line A- 

10. — Make dot 10 length of sleeve, measure from line B, and dot 1 1 one inch below dot 10. 
11. — Draw line D from dot H across paper. 

12. — Place letter P (see Wrist measure on Dart Rule) at dot H 9 and make dot 12 ac- 
cording to Wrist measure. 

13. — Draw line E from dot 12 accross dot 10 to edge of paper. 

1$. — Make dot 13 on line E one and one-half inches outside dot 10. (See diagram.) 

15. — Make dot 14 one and one-fourth of an inch in from dot 10. (See diagram.) 

1Q. — Turn rule over and place A corner at dot 4, and draw curved line F to dot 5. 

17. — "With rule turned over, draw line (J from dot 5 to dot l f using curve, striking line B 
one-half inch before it reaches dot 1. 

18-— With rule face up, draw line H from dot 1 to dot 3. 

19. — Draw straight line I from dot 3 to dot 8, and line J from dot 8 to dot 12» 

20. — Draw straight line K from dot 4 to dot 7, and line L from dot 7 to dot 14. 

21. — Turn rule over and place A corner at dot 9, and draw curved line from dot 5 to dot 9. 

22-— With A corner at dot 13, draw curved line from dot 9 to dot 13. 

23. — Make dots 17 and IS three inches down, and one fourth inch in from lines K and I. 

2<J. — Draw curved lines from dots £ and 3 to dots 17 and 18, then straight lines to 
dots 7 and 8- 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. g 

25> — Make dots 15 and 16 three inches down and one-fourth inch out from lines L and 
J, and draw curved lines from dots 7 and 8 to dots 15 and 16, then straight lines to dots 12 
and 14» 



Note: — In sewing in sleeve, place dot 1 three-fourths to one inch forward of shoulder seams in waist 
and top of sleeve quite loose. To draft for sleeves gathered at shoulder, piece a dot one inch above dot 
1 and draw curved lines from new dot to dots 3 and 5. In tracing bottom of sleeve, line from!2 should 
come about one-half inch above dot 13 . (See dotted lines at bottom.) In small arm's eyes, sleeve will 
frequently need to be turned forward in sewing in, and if sleeve measure be very small, the rules in draf- 
ting for children's sleeves should be observed, thus: dot 13 should be placed only one inch out, and dot 
14 should be one and one-half inches from dot 10, on line E, ar >d line Jf should fall one-half inch in- 
side dot 13 in tracing under portion of sleeve. If top of sleeve be more than one and one-half inches 
larger than arm's eye in waist, arm's eye in waist should be trimmed out slightly in front at bottom, before 
sewing in sleeve. Arm's eye in dresses should never be bound in finishing, but stretched and made as 
elastic as possible, especially from dot 20, in front, to dot 1 5, 

In basting darts in front waists, always hold front side of dart towards you, and give it as much elas- 
ticity as possible. In basting and sewing with machine, always place your front side of dart downward 
also the sleeve should be placed downward, in sewing in sleeve with Machine. 

Facing and l^etaHs in Finish, 

In facing a basque at its lower edge, also at bottom of sleeve, facing should be a correct bias, held very 
smooth, andin turning up facing, after having joined the facing to the garment,*great care should be taken, 
to basts it Hat near its lower edge, and if the facing be more than two inches in width, it should be basted 
again near the upper edge, before attempting to hem it down.. 

On Cuffs, Collars, or any decoration for waists or sleeves, the outer portion or covering, should be 
nut at least three-eighths of an inch larger all around than the crinoline, and this margin of cloth should 
be caught down lightly to the crinoline, and the lining or facing should be basted on, and its edges blind- 
stitched nicely to the edges or! the outer portion or covering. A collar or cuff should never be sewed 
around its outer edges by Machine and turned, as so many dress makers do, as it destroys all beauty of 
outline, which goes so far to distinguish, to a practiced eye, between shop-make and first-class finish of a 
dress. And these things which some work women are so likely to esteem of not much importance, are 
the things which well dressed women always esteem as of great importance, as they are of the greatest 
value to them, in aiding them to discern between those who are skilled in the trade and those who are not 
And the reason skilled workmen always have, and always will, command good prices for labor, is simply 
because they pay attention to these details in finish. Many a woman, could, if she chose, work side by 
side with the best Ladies' Tailors, if she would only understand that she must use more time and pay 
more attention to the details of Dress Making. It is one thing to make a dress, and quite another thing 
to make and finish a dress, which shall show the skill of the artiste, not only in fit and drapery, but in 
finish and general effect, in all the outlines, 




10 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 




Fig. 2. 



Fig. 2, 



(See 



and 



Fig. 8.— Rules for Drafting Bias Side form in Basques, 

This style of Basque is especially nice for 
stout ladies, but cannot be used for Polonaise or 
Wrappers, as too much fullness is at bottom of 
second dart. 

1. — Draft as per instructions for Fig. 2 as 
far as dot 18, omitting dots 15, 16, 8, 4 and 
7, and side line. 

2. — Extend Bust line back about 8 inches. 
3. — Extend the Waist line back the same 
distance. Make new dot 2 on bust line, five 
inches from first dot 2. 

4. — Place mark on Bust bar at new dot 2, 
(taking care that Under Arm Measure does not 
change) and see that Bust bar is on and straight 
with bust line, and draw side line. 

5. — Shut up Machine until new dot 2 is 
outside side bar, and draw line from new dot 2, 
and make dot 4 as in Fig. 2. 

Q. — Make dots 15 and 8 as in 
diagram.) 

7. — Make dots 5 and 7 as in 
draw lines across 8 and 7, and from dot £ to dot 2. 

8. — Measure dot 16 as in Fig. 2, and observe the distance from new 2 to 16, and make dot 
16 the same distance from first dot 2. (This is side piece of basque.) 
9. — Raise first dot 2, one and one-half inches. 
10. — Raise lower end of shoulder line one and one-half inches, and draw Arm's Eye curve 
from the lower point of new shoulder line to raised dot 2. (See dotted lines in diagram <S.) 
11„ — Make dot 19 on old waist line one and one-half inches from dot 13. 
1 2.— Make dot 20 one and one-half inch back of lower point of second dart, or one and 
one-half inch from lower point of line running clown from dot 13. 

13. — Measure the distance from dot 13 to dot 3» and make dot 21, one and one-half inches 
above waist line, and just the same distance from dot 19, as from 13 to 3, and draw a new 
waist line from dot 19 to 2 1. 

11 — Draw a straight line from raised dot 2 to dot 21. (See dottted lines in diagram.) 
15. — Draw a curved line from top of second dart to dot 19. 
16- — Draw a straight line from riot 19 to dot 20- 

17. — Draw curved line from dot 21 to bottom of basque one and one half inches outside of 
and parallel with, line running from dot 3« 

f&irestiofts for Troioiu^ Fig* 8* 

Trace across waist line, from dot | to dot 13, thence across dot 19, to dot 21, then up to raised dot 
2, around new Arm's Eye and up new shoulder line around neck and down front, as in former diagram. 
Trace front dart as in former diagram. 

Trace down front edge of second dart, and from top of dart to dot 19, from dot Igl to dot 20. 

In basting, place dot 19 on dot 12, and stretch the back edge of second dari. 

The side piece is tiaced just the same as in Fig. 2, or in first directions for drafting front. 

This form or style of drafting, is a bias from dot 13 to dot 21, and gives a smooth beautiful side for 
stout forms or large hips. 

In basting or sewing a collar to the neck of a dress, the neck of dress should first be stretched with 
the fingers to render it elastic. The Neck Measure should alwa\s be taken very tight, high up on the 
neck, and nothing should come between the tape mtasure and the ladies' neck, when taking this measure, 
and in pinning up a lining, commence at waist line and stretch neck slightly in front. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



11 



Fig. ^—Drafting for Princess. 




This diagram is essentially the same as in Pig. 
6, in the Tenth Edition of our first Instruction 
Book, as far down as dots 4. 5 and 6. 

1.— If you are drafting on the goods, the hack: 
bar of the Machine should be placed just as far 
from the front edge of the goods, as you wish the 
size of center back plaits, in the skirt of wrapper. 
Thus: if you wish the plaits in back of skirt at 
center, ten inches on each side, lay the back bar 
of Machine ten inches from front edge of goods. 
If the goods be double fold, place fold of goods 
toward you, and if single fold, we prefer to place 
the back bar of Machine near the front edge of 
goods, and join in a breadth of goods below waist 
line, in order to avoid a center seam in skirt. 

2. — After having drafted the center back, as 
far as dot 2, extend the waist line across paper or 
goods, and place dot 2, as far from first dot 2, as 
yon desire plait at side, or a better method is, to 
place the lower end of Arm's Eye bar on the sel- 
vedge of goods, taking care that Waist bar of Ma- 
chine is straight on waist line, which will brine 
dot 6 about one inch in from selvedge and thus 
make a straight selvedge down front edge of hack 
skirt. This produces the nicest hanging skirt for 
princess or wrappers, as tbo fullness in back is 
prevented from falling forward and the graceful 
side slope in front skirt gives the backward flow of 
drapery, so much desired in this class of garments, 
either with or without train. For trained skirts, 
simply extend the skirt down the required length, 
sloping down gradually from side line to center of 
back at bottom. 

N. 1>. — If you have not already become fa- 
miliar witli drafting on cloth as described in first 
Instruction Book, you should do so before attempt- 



Supplementary Studies. 



Note.— In tracing back and back side form (which, of course, are in one piece,) simply Irace down as 
far as yon -wish, the fullness of skirt to come, that is, if you wish the plaits to come in at the waist line, 
just trace downward to waist line. If for stout hips, we prefer the plaits or fnllness about three inches 
below waist, thus giving a smooth fitting hip. This, however, is a matter of choice. In sloping the skirt 
for a walking dress, the skiit at center back should be about two inches longer than on the line running 
down across dot 6. In d:afting for house wrappers, clcak shapes at side waist should be med, making 
waist about one -fourth of an inch larger, and for large forms using all variations as directed for such 
forms in former instructions. 



12 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 10— Directions for Drafting. 

For Wrappers, Princess, Tea Gowns, &c. 



1. — Draft front same {is 
in Fig. 2, as far as dut 2, 
on bust line, leaving out 
side lino and dot 4 and 
dot 7. 

2. — Make darts as in 
Fig. 2, and extend waist and 
bust lines back from dots 2 
and 3 about ten inches. 

3. — Make new dot 2 on 
Hist line, seven inches from 
first dot 2. 

4. — Place mark on bust 
bar on new dot 2, and draw 
line down outside side bar, 
and draw new line from dot 
2. (taking care that bust 
bar is on bust line and waist 
bar on waist line.) 

5. — Make dot 4, as in 
former diagrams, using one- 
half width of underarm bar. 
6.— Make dots 5 and 7 
as in former diagrams. 

7. — Draw curved line 
from dot 4 to dot 7, and 
continue line down required 
ength of skirt, usiu g 
straight line below dot 7, 
sloping forward at bottom, 
about three inches. 

8. — Extend line from 
dot 6, down in same manner, 
i using straight line below 
\ d o t 6, sloping back-ward 
_ about three inches at bottom. 
3.— Draw curved line down to dot 8. (Care should be taken to stop curved line at dot 8.) 
10.— Measure back from lower end of line running down from dot 7, about seventeen 
inches across paper and draw diagonal line from dot 8 to this point. This line should be two 
and one-half inches longer than front edge of skirt Thus, if skirt be 40 inches in front, it 
should be 41 inches on line running down from dots 6 and 7, and 42£ inches on line running- 
down from dot 8. These two pieces form the front, and side front of Wrappers, Princess, 
Tea Gowns, Etc., when it is desired to seperate the side form from the front, and extend the 
seam to bottom of skirt. If only one piece is desired in fronts of each garments, diagram of 
Fig. 7 in first book can be used getting a dart at dots 3 and 4, as there represented, thus 
leaving the entire front in one piece. Care must always be taken to stop curved line at side, 




TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



13 



at dot 8, and straight line used from this point downward, sloping out at bottom desired width. 
A good rule for such width is thirty inches at bottom, if skirt measure be forty inches in length. 
If skirt measure be longer or shorter, this width will ije increased or diminished. Care should 
also be taken that line running across dot 8 should be same length as the line across dot 6 in back 
drafting. (See Fig. 9.) 



4»i«««»JV*«^«X«« •»«»»«1^ 



Fig. 11 —Ladies French Coat Back. 




If the garment is desired for out door wear over the dress, take 
measures same as for a basque, and add two measures to the bust, one to 
the waist, neck and Arm's Eye. 

1. — Set back portion of Machine to measure, and mark around the 
Machine as usual, leaving out side line, from waist to arm's eye, making a 
dot at waist bar at side, to show the full size of waist. (Care must be 
taken to do this.) 

2. — Make dots 3, 4, 5 and 6 as in former draftings. 

3. — Take one inch from Arm's Eye, measuring up from lowest point. 

■1. — Take one inch from waist line at side. 

5. — Take one and one-half inch from size of liij3 at dot Q. (Measure 
off these distances with B corner of Dart Rule and mark the space with a 
dot. 

Q. — Draw lines from dot 3 to neck, and across dot £ as usual. 

7. — Draw lines from the inch space taken off at arm's eye, to the inch 
taken off at waist, and downward from inch space taken from waist, to 
one and one-half inch inside dot Q. 

Q. — Extend lines the desired length of garment, using straight lines 
from dots, downward, sloping out about one inch at bottom; if length 
desired be 20 inches. If 40 inches length is desired, lines should slope 
outward about two inches at bottom. If fullness is desired at back in 
skirt with no seam below waist line, the drafting should be placed as far 
from front edge of fold of goods as desired for fullness, taking care that 
drafting is straight with goods always. If this style of waist is desired 
for indoor jackets, wrappers, or any garment for house wear, it should be 
drafted as far as dots <4, 5 and 6, exactly the same, taking off the same 
quantity at side, only not adding to your measures. A slight cloak shape 
Sflould be used at side waist of about one-fourth inch. 

In taking measures for long cloaks, three measures should be taken around the skirt, very 
loosely. The first, or upper measure, four inches below the waist line, the second measure 
about 18 inches below the waist, and the third around the bottom of dress, loosely, as the skirt 
hangs on the lady measured. Care should be observed to know exactly where these measures are 
taken, as it will be necessary to test the skirt measure of pattern for cloak. If cloak pattern 
should be found to vary from these measures when drafted, lines in skirt may be sloped in or 
out, at or below dots Q f 7 and 8- 



14 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 12— Front and Side Form for French Coat. 




1. — Set front of Machine 
at enlarged measures, adding 
to neck, arm's eye and bust, as 
in directions fur Fig. 11. 

2. — Draft entirely around 
Machine leaving out line at 

siiie. 

3.— Make dots 1 and 2 as 
in former draftings. 

1. — Draw lines from dots 

I and 2 as in former draftings. 

5- — Make dot 9 on' waist 
line two and one-half inches 
from front line. 

6. — Place star on Dart 
Rule on dot 9, and make dot 

II size of Dart. 

7.— Place star on dot H, 
and make dot 10, size of second 
Dart from dot 11. (This places 
all the cloth in both Darts in 
one, with no second space, or 
space between. 

8. — Take one-half inch of 
the cloth from this Dart at dot 
10, (this making Dart one-half 
inch smaller) and transfer it to 
dots 3 and £, using one-fourth inch in front of dot 3, and one-fourth inch back of dot £. 

9.— Finish front drafting same as in former diagrams, extending lines down from dots 7 
and 18, recpiired length of skirt, sloping line at dot 7, backward at bottom ubout two and 
one-half inches for 30 inch length of skirt. 

N. B. — Dot 7 in cloak should be one and one-half inches from clot 5* 
10. — If a double breast garment is desired, measure two and one-half inches from dot 1, 
two and one-half inches from dot 17, the same distance at neck, also at dot 18, and draw lines 
parallel with first front lines, preserving the same form of front. (See dotted front lines in 
diagram.) 

11.— With straight edge of Dart Rule extend bust and waist lines, across paper. 
12- — Make new dot 2 on bust line, seven inches from first dot 2* 

13.— Place mark on bust bar at new dot 2, on bust line Avith bust bar resting on bust line 
and waist bar on waist line, and mark down outside side bar. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 15 



14.— Draw line down from dot 2, and make dot 4, three-fourths of an inch from this line 
where it crosses waist line, and draw line from dot 2 to dot <1. 

15* — Make clot 5 as in former diagrams. 

16.— Make dot 6, one and one-half inches from dot 5, (See diagram,) and draw curved 
line from dot 4 to dot 6, extending line down required length of cloak or same length as line 
crossing dot 7, and sloping forward at bottom 24 inches. 

17- — Make dots 15, 16 and 8, as in former diagrams, and draw lines from dots 15 to 16. 

18. — Draw curved line from waist line to dot 8. (Curved line must stop at dot 8.) 

19. — Now arid one inch you took from arm's eye in back to arm's eye iu front at clot 15. 
(See Fig. 11.) 

20. — Add to waist line at side, one inch you took from back waist line. 

21. — Add one and one-half inches at dot 8? which you took from dot 6 in back. (See 
Fig. 11.) 

22. — Draw curved line from the added inch at dot 15, to the added inch at waist line, 
using rule face up, A corner at waist line to get the curve. 

23. — Draw curved line from added inch at waist line, to added one and one-half inches at 
dot 8, and continue straight line from dot 8, sloping outward at bottom, the required size of 
cloak. This distance can be ascertained by deducting size of front and back pieces of diagram 
from required size at bottom of cloak, and placing the remainder in this side form. Thus: if 
the back diagram were seven inches at the bottom of skirt, and front diagram IT inches at the 
bottom of skirt, and one-half of required size of cloak at bottom should be 40 inches, the side 
form should be 16 inches in width. Thus, Front, 17, Back, 7. 17+7=24, and 40-24=16, 
which is required width of side piece at bottom. 




16 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 13— Instructions for Drafting Skirt. 



This diagram is one of the most useful our new book contains. 
An illy fitting skirt spoils all beauty of a costume. No matter how 
nicely the u^per portions of the same may have been rounded to the 
form, or how much skill and artistic taste the drapery may display, 
yet if the skirt of a dress is not graceful in contour, and right in 
proportions, we feel niuch as we do when our attention is called to a 
statue, whose pedestal or base is out of proportion, or is not con- 
structed in perfect harmony with the statue itself. If an artist neg- 
lects to give a por.ion of his time and skill to the foundation of his 
work, we feel it is in a great measure a failure. So it is with a d; ess. 
Who of us has not felt, in wending our way along public thorough- 
fares or in public gatherings, where masses of women congregate in 
holiday attire, that the one thing needed more perha; s than anything 
e'se, (next to a nicely fitting waist,) was a skirt system, which should 
enable women to cut skirts by measure, according to scientific prin- 
ciples. And so we offer the following rules for Skirt drafting, wh.ch 
have been proven to be just what is wanted to fill the need of to-day, 
for stout ladies, for slender ladies, for any and all ladies, who desire 
to be relieved of the nuisance of badly fitting skirts. 

Always use large size paper for drafting skirts, or draft 
on lining. (See Skirt Measure on page 3.) 

Lay paper on table, long side toward you, which should 
be at least 44 inches in length. 

1. — Draw line A down from edge of paper. 

2. — Draw line B across paper, two inches from top and 
square with line A, (place short side of rule on, and straight 
with line A. 

3. — Deduct one-fourth of belt measure for space of back 
fullness, or gathers, and divide the remainder by 4. Add two 
inches to this remainder, to take out in darts, and you have 
square or size of each front gore. Thus: if your belt be 28, 
deduct one-fourth of 28, which is 7 inches, for space of back 
gathers, and you have a remainder of 21, which divided by 4, 
is 5 J, with 2 added, gives you 7£ inches, which is used as a square, or size of each gore. 

4. — Make dot 1 on line B seven and one-fourth inches from line A- 

5. — Make dot 2 on line B ? one inch from dot 1. 

6. — Make dot 3 centrally between dot 2 and line A. 

7.— Make dots 4 and 5, one-half inch from and on each side of dot 3> 

8, — Make dot Q three and one-half inches below dot 3 and draw lines from dots 4 and 5 
to dot 6. 

9, — Make dot 7 same distance below dot 1 as from line A to dot 1. 
10. — Make dot 8 one inch outside dot 7« (See diagram.) 

11. — Turn rule over and place A corner at dot 2, and draw curved line from clot 2 to 
dot S- 




TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



17 



12. — Measure down on line A forty inches or, required length of front skirt below line B- 
13. — Place dotQ, one-half inch more than skirt measure below dot 2» and 10 inches back 
from line A- 

14. — Draw straight line from dot 8 to dot 9. 

Note. — In drafting skirts for stout ladies, whose skirt length is greater in front than back, draft as 
per these instructions first, then add at top the required distance running line J± up as per dotted line in 
diagram, also continuing lines from dots 4, 5 aQ d 2, up to upper dotted lines at top of diagram. Dots 
3 4 5 and 6 may be omitted and a dart of two inches taken up in in front of skirt instead, thus 
curving at top, to give added fullness in front, as well as added length. 

This dotted line at top should slope gradually back until it reaches back gathers. Thus the nuisance 
of skirts which tip up in front are avoided, and gotten rid of forever. The bottom of a walking skirt 
should be straight until you reach the straight back breadths which should be rounded down from side 
seam, which joins the side gore, to center of back, where it should be one inch longer than at side. The 
bias seams at back edge of both gores increase the length gradually in front and at side until you reach 
the straight back breadths, which, if they be rounded down one inch at center, will make a skirt two 
inches longer in back than at center front, for regular forms. 

•MX****'**-**************** 

Fig, 14.-Side Gore of Skirt. 




1. — Draw line A down front edge of paper or cloth 
required length of skirt, which should be one-half inch 
longer than at front. Thus; if front measure be "10 inches, 
line A should be 40?. 

2. — Draw line B across paper two inches from top and 
square with line A. 

3. — Place dot 1 on line B, 1\ inches from line A, or 
the square of your skirt gore from line A. (See directions 
for getting size of gores in instructions for Fig. 13.) 

4.— Make dot 2 on line B, one inch from line^A- 

5. — Make dot 3 centrally between dots 1 and 2- 

Q. — Make dots £ and 5 one-half inch either side of 

dot 3. 

7.— Make dot 6 three and one-half inches below dot 

3, and draw straight lines from dots "1 and 5 to dot Q. 
8« — Make 7 on line A, the same distance as from line 

A to dot 1. 

9. — Draw curved line from dot 2 to dot 7, placing A 

corner of rule at dot 2 to get the curve. 

10. — Make dot 8, 11 inches back from lower end of 

line A* 

11. — Draw straight line from line A to dot 8- 

12.— Draw diagonal line from dot 1 to dot 8- (Line 

from dot 1 to dot 8, should be one-half inch longer than 

line A. 

Note.— In drafting for stout ladies, skirt at top should slope 
upward, from dot 1 , to same distance above top of line A, as 
5i dotted line is above dot 1, in Fig. 13. (See diagram.) 



18 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



IX to IS inches 






S«5 

I 



11 to 12 inches 



Fig. 15.-BACK SKIRT. 



This is a simple outline of back width of skirt, or back 
portion, using as much cloth as desired to make skirt re- 
quired width at bottom. 

One breadth of double-fold goods, forty-two inches wide 
is usually sufficient, or two breadths of single-fold twenty 
two inches, as it would not be advisable to cut the goods 
unless a decided difference should exist. A few inches, say 
four or five, would not make a material difference, as re- 
marked in instructions per Fig. 13, tliese back breadths 
should slope downward at center about an inch, (See Fig. 
15.) and be straight at top, and the fullness at top should 
be held in to a space one-fourth the whole length of belt. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



19 



Fig. 16— Instructions for Drafting Child's Princess, 

With Seams at Shoulder, when Bust, Shoulder and Arm's Eye, are less than 

Measures found on Machine. 



1. — Shut Machine to smallest measures found thereon, and draft 
around Machine. 

2. — Make dot 1, two inches below neck on shoulder line. 

3. — Make dots 2, 3, 4> 5 and 6,- as in former draftings, and draw 
lines as in former draftings, crossing these dots. (Line running across 
dot 4, should slope in slightly below dot £, to avoid fullness at bottom 
of back skirt.) 

<£, — Place E corner of Dart Rule at lower end of arm's eye, "Child- 
ren's measures" on Dart Rule resting on lower edge of bust line, and 
make dot at child's bust measure you wish to draft from. (See Children's 
measures on Dart Rule. 

5. — In same manner, place E corner on waist line, and at dot 6> 
and clot at child's bust measure you wish to draft from. 

g. Measure shoulder line to ascertain if it be the required measure, 

and if too long, take off at lower end the required amount. 

7. Draw lines crossing these new dots and parallel with lines first 

drawn, thus discarding the extra amount of cloth, and bring drafting 
down to size required. (See diagram.) Let the line running from waist 
to arm's eye, extend about one half inch above first line, (or discarded 
line.) thus making arm's eye one-half inch smaller. See diagram. 

In drafting for children, always use cloak shape, or curved line at 
side waist, both in front and back, as a child's waist is not sharply de- 
fined. 

3. Extend lines crossing dots 4, 5 and' 6, desired length of skirt, 

sloping them in slightly to avoid fullness at bottom of skirt. If open 
back is desired, add one-fourth inch at center back drafting, and deduct 
L ,he same amount from center front. 



20 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 17— Drafting for Front of Child's Princess. 

When Measures are Less than those found on Machine. 




1. — Set neck to neck measure. 

2- — If arm's eye be less than nine inches, move 
bust bar up above 9 on front bar, one-half inch for 
each measure less than nine inches; thus: if arm's eye 
you wish to draft for be 8, move bust bar one-half 
inch above 9, if you wish to draft for 7 inch arm's eye 
let upper edge of bust bar rest one inch above 9? etc. 

3> — Set under arm measure and close up Machine 
to 26 which is the smallest bust measure on bust bar 
and draft around Machine, stopping shoulder line at 
desired length. 

<i. — Eemove Machine and place E corner of Dart 
Rule at junction of bust and side lines, and make dot 
at measure you wish to draft from. 

5. — In like manner place E corner of Dart Rule 
at junction of waist and side lines, also at dot 8 and 
make dots at child's bust measure you wish to draft from 
and draw new line to these dots, parallel with first 
lines; thus discarding lines first drawn and bringing 
drafting down to size desired. (See dotted lines in 
diagram.) 

Q. — Make dot 1 on shoulder line two inches from 
neck. 

N. B. — In getting dot 16 for arm's eye measure 
less than 9 always use 9. (See arm's^eye measure for 
waist on Dart Rule at B corner. 

7. — Place B corner of Dart Rule at junction of 
waist and front lines, and make dot 2 at star on 
Dart Rule. 

8- — Make dot 3, on waist line 1 inch from clot 2. 

9. — Make dot "1, five inches below dot 3. 

10. — Draw line A from dot 1 to clot 2. 

11.— Make dot 5 on line A one inch below bust line. 

12.— Draw line B from dot 5, across clot 3, down required length of dress. 

13.— Draw line from dot 2, across dot % required length of dress. 

!<£.— Extend side and front lines down required length of dress, sloping line crossing dot 
8, back at bottom, desired width of skirt. This distance can be ascertained by measuring the 
front, back and side back pieces at bottom, and deducting the amount of cloth in these three 
pieces from whole skirt measure at bottom, the remainder will be the amount to be placed m 
front side gore. If open back is desired, deduct one -fourth inch at center front, and add same 
amount at center back. In cutting for open back, lay center front line on fold of goods to 
avoid seam in center front. In drafting for children, cloak shape should be omitted in front, 
till drafting is otherwise complete, when waist line should be measured both front and back 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



21 



draftings, and as much cloth added in cloak shape at front, as may be necessary to make waist 
required size. Thus: if on measuring, you find the waist line, (omitting the dart at dots 3 an( i 
4, falls short ^ inch of waist measure desired, make your cloak shape one-half inch wide, thus 
adding the necessary amount to make waist of dress the required size. 

Tracing ^ta» 17 for Open JBcicft* 

Lay your drafting on cloth, with front line exactly on fold of goods. Trace across waist line to dot 2, 
around neck and down shoulder line to dot J thence down line J^_ to dot 2, from dot 2, down line C to 
bottom of dress. This is front piece of dress. Now move your drafting back four inches from front fold 
of goods, (taking care that drafting is straight on goods,) trace the remainder of waist line, from dot 3, 
to side line, from dot 3 , across dot 5, to dot 1 ? down remainder of shoulder line, arornd arm's eye, and 
down side line, and from dot 3, down line B to bottom of dress, This is side piece. In cutting, allow 
seams everywhere but at neck and arm's eye, as in former drafting for adults. 



<*»>****■****.*%**.** •**■*****•** 



Fig. 18.-GHILDS OR MISSES BASQUE. 




This drafting is essentially the same as in drafting for adults. The 
dotted lines at side, show the manner of discarding extra cloth, by using 
E corner of Dart Rule, at bust, waist and hip, when measures used are 
less than any found on Machine. 

The manner of using Children's bust measures on Dart Rule is fully 
explained in directions for Figs. 16 and 17. 

The dotted Hues at center back, show the one-fourth inch to be 
added in open backs. Dot 1 on shoulder line should be placed only two 
inches from neck line in children's draftings, and lines crossing dots 
-£ and 5, should always be sloped in a trifle, say one-half inch at bottom 
as a child's hip measure is smaller than in adults. Line running from 
dot 2, to arm's eye, should strike arm's eye only one inch from lower 
end of arm's eye in child's draftings. 



22 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Fig. 19— Front of Child's or Misses Basque, 

When Measures taken are less than any found on Machine. 




This drafting is same as former drafts in outer form, dotted lines at side showing discard- 
ed size of drafting as in Fig. lo and 17. (See diagram.) Dotted lines at 6 and 7, show the 
manner of sloping lines in from those dots, thus lessoning the size of drafting at hips. 

Dotted line at front shows the line used for open hacks. This line should be placed on 
fold of goods when tracing, to avoid center seam. 

Dot 9, is made two and one-fourth inches from first front line, or line drawn down out- 
side front bar. Only one dart is used, one inch in size at waist line. 

The top of dart should be one inch below bust line. Dot 2 should be only one and one- 
half inch from side line. 

Waist line should be measured in both front and back, omitting front dart, and cloak 
shape should be used sufficiently large to supply desired amount of cloth, to make waist re- 
quired size. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



23 



Fig. 20.— Drafting for Sleeve. 




Much lias been said and written about bad fittting sleeves, or rather sleeves that do not 
fit at all. In drafting for sleeves, great care should be taken to observe rules given in direc- 
tions for Fig. 5. In following rules there given, Avith accompanying variation, one of the best 
fitting sleeves will be produced, for all fabrics where a plain close fitting sleeve is desired. 

However, there is such a variety of forms of sleeves now in use, and it being the design of 
our Supplemental Studies to assist those using our Machine to be well up to the times, and 
able to supply any demand in this line of cutting, that they may be called upon to furnish, 
we introduce a few of the many forms of sleeves now in vogue, some of which we trust will be 
found suitable for any demand, and others may be added from time to time as we deem 
necessary. 

1. — Draft sleeve same as in directions for Fig. 5, extending line H two inches below dot 
3, in a continuous curve. 

2. — Make dot 15 at lower end of line H, two inches below dot 3. 

3, — Make dot 16 on curved line F, two inches from dot 4. 

4. — Make dot 17 on line 0, one inch outside dot 8- 

5. — Make dot 18 on line 0» one inch inside dot 7- 

g. — Draw straight line from clot 16 to dot 18, and from dot 15 to dot 17, and curve 
them at top, as in directions for Fig. 5. 

7, — Draw straight line from dot 18 to dot 14, and from dot 17 to dot 12, and curve as 
in Fig. 5. 

N. B. — This sleeve is close fitting and is especially nice for fabrics which are liable to draw 
out in seams. 



24 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



Drafting for Fig. 21. 




1. — Make lines A and B as in Fig. 5, taking 
care to draw line B quite across paper. 

2. — Make dots as in Fig. 5, only omitting dot 4. 
3- — Make dot 15 on line B, same distance from 
dot 2 as from junction of lines A and B to dot 1, or 
first arm's eye measure. 

4. — Make dot 16 same distance below dot 15, 
as from line B to dot 5. (See diagram.) 

5. — Make dot 17 on line C> same distance from 
dot 8> as from dot 9 to dot 7- 

6. — Extend line E across dot 12, the distance 
between dot 13 and dot \% and make dot 18 at 
this point. (See diagram.) 

7- — Make dot 19 just centrally between dot 16 
and dot 17. 

8. — Make dot 20 three-fourths inch inside dot 19. 
9. — Make dot 21 on line C one-half inch inside 
dot 17. 

10. — Make dot 22 two inches below dot 21. 

11. — Place A corner of dart rule at dot 3 and draw curved line F from'dot 3 to dot 16- 
12. — Draw curved line Or from clot 5 to dot 1, with dart rule wrong side up, and small end 
down, so line Or will strike line B one-half inch before it reaches dot 1. This rule must be 
observed that sleeve may not be too pointed at top. 

13- — With rule face up, and small end down, draw curved line from dot 1 to dot 3. 
14. — Draw straight line I from dot 20 to dot 17. 
15. — Draw straight line J from dot 22 to clot 18. 

16. — Place A corner of rule, and draw curved line from dot 16 to dot 20. 
17. — Connect dot 17 to dot 22 with curved line. 
N. B. — In basting, place dot 5 on dot 16, and baste downward to a point about one-fourth 
inch above dot 9, then commence at bottom of sleeve, placing dot 18 on dot 13, and baste 
upward to about one-fourth inch below dot 9, and lay the fullness in a box plait on wrongsicle 
of sleeve at elbow. 

Place dot 1 about one inch in front of shoulder seam of waist in sewing in sleeve, and 
hold the top of sleeve quite loose. By taking a looser arm's eye measure, or adding two meas- 
ures to the one already taken, this form of sleeve may be made to gather at top, but in such 
cases dot 1 should also be raised one inch. 

This sleeve is designed more especially for wash goods, but may be used in any desired 
fabric. 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



25 



Diagram for Fig. 22. 




1- — Draw lines A and B as in drafting Fig. 5. 
2. — Make dots 1, 2 and 3 as in Fig. 5. 
3- — Make dot 4 on line B same distance from dot 
2 as from line A to dot 1. 

4. — Make dot 5 as in Fig. 5. 

5- — Make dot 6 on line A, one-half inch less than 
your shoulder to elbow measure, below line B- 

6. — Draw line from dot 6, square across paper. 
7. — Make dot 7 on line 0» opposite second elbow 
measure. That is; if your elbow measure be 12, make 
dot 7 on line 0, at second 12, on elbow measures on 
Dart Rule. 

8- — Make dot 8 your first elbow measure from dot 
7. That is; if elbow measure you are drafting from, be 
12, place B corner of Dart Rule at dot 7j long side of 
rule below line C» and make dot 8 at first 12 on elbow 
measures, for sleeve on Dart Rule. 
9. — Make dot 9 one inch inside dot Q. 
10. — Make dot 10 on line A, whole length of sleeve below line B. 
11. — Make dot 11 one inch below dot 10- 
12. — Draw line D from dot H, square across paper. 

13' — Make dot 12 on line D according to your wrist measure on Dart Rule. To get dot 12, 
F on Dart Rule should rest on dot 11, and wrist measure on Dart Rule rest on line D. 

1^. — Draw line ]H from dot 12 across dot 10, one and one-half inches, and make dot 13 
at this point. 

15. — Draw line F from clot 4, parallel with line A. 

16. — Make dot 15 on line F same distance below dot £ as from line B to dot 5. 

17. — Make dot IS on line F one- half inch more than whole sleeve length below line B. 

18. — Make dot 17 on line £•, at junction of lines E and D- 

19. — Make dot IS on line D, same distance from dot 17, as from 11 to 12- 

20. — Draw diagonal line from dot 18 across dot 16, one and one-half inches, and make 
dot 19 at this point. 

21. — Make dot 20 one and one-half inches inside dot 16, on diagonal line. (See diagram.) 

22. — Make dot 21 three inches below dot 7- 

23.— Make dots 22 and 23 one inch each side dot 21- 

24.— Draw lines G and H as in Fig. 5. 

25.— Place A corner at dot 3, and draw line I from dot 3 to dot 15. 

26.— Draw straight line K from dot 20 to dot 22- 

27.— Draw straight line L from dot 12 to dot 23. 

28.— Connect lines K and L, with dot 7 by curved lines from dots 22 and 23. (Those 
lines may come to a point one-half inch above dot 7 if desired.) 

29. — Draw lines N" and 2IL from 5 to 13. 

30. Make dot 8i on line 0, one inch imside dot 8- 

31. Draw curved lines from dots 15 and 19 to dot 8vj- 

N. B.— This sleeve will also gather at arm's eye, by raising dot 1 from one to two inches, 
and rounding lines G and H higher at top, and adding 3 measures to arm's eye. 



26 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 




Fig. 23,— Drafting Child's Sleeve. 

1. — Make lines A and B, as in Fig. 5. 

2.— Make clot 1 on line B, one inch less than one-half arm's eye 
measure from line A. 

3. — Make dot 2 two inches from dot 1. 

4. — Make dot 3 two inches below dot 2„ 

5. — Make dot 4 one and one-half inches below dot 1. 

6.— Make dot 5 on line A three inches below line B. 

7. — Make dot 6, and draw line C as in Fig. 5. 

8. — Make dot 7 on line C, one-half inch less than one-half arm's 
8 eye measure from line A. 

9. — Make dot 8 one inch from dot 7. 
10. — Make dot 9 one-half inch from dot 6, on line C. 
11. — Make dots 1Q, 11, and 12, and draw lines D and E as in Fig. 5. 
12. — Make dot 13 only one inch outside dot 10. 
13. — Make dot 14 one inch from dot 12, on line E. 
14. — Finish drafting as in Fig. 6. 

N. B. — For children's sleeve measure, see page 3. 

i»i>)'«« X*V*li.FM* nrxTrnJlt* 

Fig. 24.— Drafting for Dolman Sleeve. 

For drafting Cloak or Dolman sleeves, add one measure to Arm's Eye, Elbow and Wrist. 

1. — Draw line A nine inches from 
front edge of paper. 

2. — Draw line B straight across pa- 
per, about one-half inch from top. 

3. — Make dots 1 and 2 on line B as 
in Fig. 5, using enlarged sleeve measures, 
by adding one measure to arm's eye, elbow 
and wrist measures, taken for house dress. 

<J. — Make dot 3 on line B, centrally 
between dots 1 and 2. 

5. — Make dot "1 two inches below 

dot 3. 

6. — Make dot 5 six inches down on 

line A. 

7,— Make dots 6, 7, 8 and 9, as in 
Fig. 5, and draw line C. 

3. — Make dot 10 on line B one and 
one-half inches from dot 2- 

9, — Make dot H two and one-half 
inches below dot 10- 

10.— Make clot 12 on line C four 
inches from dot 8. 

11.— Draw line D down front edge of paper, eight inches from line A, and parallel with 
line A. 

12. — Make dot 13, on line D, exactly opposite dot 5 on line A. 
13. — Make dot 1£ two and one-half inches below dot 15. 

l£ e _Place A corner of Dart Rule (wrong side up) at dot 4, and draw curved line E to 
dot 5. 




TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



27 



15. — Place word "Arm" on dart curve of Dart Rule, on dot 5, and draw curved line F to 
dot 14. 

16. — Draw line G from do,t 5 to dot 1 as in Fig 5. 

17. — Draw line H from dot 1 to dot 11. 

18. — Draw line I from dot 11 across dot 12, extending line I about nine inches below dot 
12, or as long as you wish sleeve in the back. 

19. — Draw curved line J as in Fig. 5. 

20. — Make dot 15 on line D nine inches below dot l«i. 

21. — Draw curved line from dot 15? to lower point of line I, or use any preferred shape 
for lowei part of sleeve as per dotted lines in diagram. (See Fig. 21. 

Note. — In tracing Dolman sleeve, trace upper portion of sleeve from dot ] 4, on line J* to dot 5, 
then around lines G- and HE, thence down line I, and around lower edge of sleeve any desired form at 
lower edge. For lower piece, or under portion of sleeve, trace from dot {y to dot 4. arid from dot 5 to dot 
9 on line J, thence any required form at bottom, and around back as shown in dotted lines in diagram. 

In basting, join dols Q and ] 4, bringing the under and upper portions together at dot f> ( and 
arrange the under portion to suit the wearer. In sewing in the sleeve of a Dolman, the Arm's Eye should 
be trimmed out in front from dot J 5 on side line of front drafting to lower end of shoulder line, or it may 
be cut out as per doted lines in diagram Fig. 26, or front of Dolman. It is sometimes desirable to sew 
Dolman sle ve in a French Coat, and in such cases, Arm's Eye of coat should be trimmed out very little, 
and so in case a lady should tire of the Dolman sleeve, the sleeve may be cut even, using the Dolman 
sleeve to fashion a coat sleeve, and so utilizing the material in another form. 



tf*tf.^*rf***tf***rf*tfR.Atf*rf.. 




Fig. 25— Back Drafting for Dolman. 



This drafting is essentially the same as for Fig. 11, or back of 
P'rench Coat, deducting one inch at arm's eye and waist, and one and 
one-half inches at dot Q, as shown by dotted lines at side, and this 
amount must be added at side of Dolman front, drafting as in French 
Coat front drafting. 

The dotted lines at dot 2 and dot 5> show where the. back of Dol- 
man may be cut out, and sleeve of Dolmau sewed in, or the Dolman 
sleeve may be set on, at these dotted lines which cross dot 2 and 5, 
and so the form of the coat be preserved, which can be changed to a 
French Coat or Jacket, with a close fitting sleeve. If it be desired to 
fit the sleeve on, without changing the form of back, the front of 
French Coat, or Fig. 12, should be used to complete the garment, in- 
stead of diagram next represented, at Fig. 26, as Fig. 2G is a regular 
Dolman front, to be used with open Dolman sleeve. If plaits are de- 
sired in skirt at center back, they can be allowed as represented by dotted 
lines, between dots 3 and "1. If plaits are desired, the diagram should be 
placed on the goods with fold in center, as far from center back line 
as is desired for size of plaits, to avoid scam in back of skirt. 



Note. — In tracing back of D.drnnn, if French Coat is desired, and sleeve 
is to be set on, the dotted line at side should be traced, and line crossing dot 
(J omitted, and a notch should be cut iu dotted line opposite G, and this 
should join side front at notch opposite dot g in hasting s-ide seam. 



28 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 




Fig. 26.-FRONT OF DOLMAN. 

Measures for Dolmans 
should be taken same as 
for Basque as far as hip 
measure, adding to these 
measures as directed for 
Cloaks, two measures to 
bust and one measure to 
waist, neck and arm's eye 
three additional meas- 
ures should also be taken 
length of Dolman in front 
from front of neck to de- 
sired length of skirt,from 
back of neck to desired 
length of skirt, and also 
loosely around form at 
the point where skirt 
should terminate at bot- 
tom. Thus: 

Neck 14 

Arm's E;e 14 

Bust 40 

Waist -.26 

Front 20 

Back 16 

Under Arm 8 

Shoulder 6 

Hip 42 

Whole length 0iFMt46 

orBacfcsi 
Whole widtn at bottom, so 

1. — Set Machine 
to measures desired, 
and draft around the 
Machine. 

2.— Make dot 1 
at front measure. 

3. — Move Machine from you until mark on bust bar rests on side line, (care should 
be taken that bust and waist bars rest on their respective lines,) and draw second side line 
down outside bar. 

4. — Extend bust and waist lines to last side line. 

5. — Draw line across junction oi first side lineandbust line, extending across junction of 
last side line, and waist line. (See diagram.) 

G. — Make dot 2 on last line drawn, one inch above waist line. (See diagram.) 
7. — Make dot 15 on last line drawn, length of side line in back drafting, above clot 2. 
8. — Make dot 16 on bust line at arm's eye measure on Dart Rule, placing B corner of 
rule at first side line, (or, line drawn before moving machine.) 
9. — Make arm's eye curve as in former drafting. 
10. — Make dots 17 and 18, and finish front lines as in former draftings, extending line 
below 18, required length of Dolman at front. 

11.— Lay long side of Dart Rule outside diagonal side line, (or, line on which are 15 and 
2,) B corner of rule two inches below dot 2, and make dot 8 at letter C on Dart Rule. 
(See diagram.) 



TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTTING MACHINE. 



29 



12,-Draw curved line to dot 3, as in former draftings. (Line must stop at dot 8 .) 
it-Add one inch taken from back arm's eye to front arm s eye at dot 15- 

14 Add One inch to waist at dot 2. . Q 

15 -Add on and one-half inches taken from back hip at dot 6, to front hip at dot 8.. 
W -Draw lines from these added points, parallel with first hnes, also usxng cloak shape. 

(S l 7 n d edu n ct S ^SZl backing from whole width at bottom, and ^*£» 
Jti front, measuring back from lower end of front line, and continue hue bom dot 3, to 
this point, (see dotted line crossing dot 8 in diagram. 
N OTE .-m tracing front, use cm, the oute f ^^^^^ 




Tin the one opposite dot C Allies toS The bottom of Dolman should be a gradual 
and care taken in basting, to place waist lines ™8™&r x s j r than f ront 

^^^^^P^^^^^£^^SS^^^ Eye.aregivento show Afferent 
££ of SSSSkl T^enZ^le cut out and sleeves as suits the weaxe, 

•mtirmrm* .«.»"»»»» fc***^*** 

Fig. 27. -Ladies Cape or Circular. 



Take two measures: Neck, 12; Shoulder, 6 



Set neck on front and set shoulder on back. 



£._Draw line A about 
two inches from front of 
paper. 

2.— Draw line B one 
inch from top and square 
across paper. 

3. — Set neck measure 
on front, and lay front of 
Machine on paper with front 
bar resting on line &. 

£. — Set shoulder on the 
back of Machine, and lay 
back Machine wrong side up 
011 paper, with outside of 
back liar resting on line B, 
and lower point of shoulder 
liar of back exactly at 
shoulder measure on front 
shoulder bar. 

5.— Draw lines around 
back neck down back shoul- 
der and across front neck 
bar and down front shoulder 

(tat .Wdex hoc and back ** line should meet a. a point a. shonlder «„,, See 

di T-nemove Machine and place D corner of dart role at apper end of front eUonlder line 

™ d ££S. line . from bach nee, de S 1. length of cape and ^doU ^ 

L-Haee ttal nb on end of tapcexactl, at corner »,,»*■ ^or U™ G trof d« 
pencil and tape in thumb and finger of right hand at dot 1. n n g a circle 
1 Tdot 2. The tape shonld be held light, or cede will not be true. 




30 



SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



This form of circle drafting may be any desired size or length. In drafting on broadcloth 
or heavy goods, goods may be placed on the carpet, and chalk be used instead of pencil and 
any desired size of circle be obtained by driving a tack in the tape at junction of lines A and 
B. N. B. — In drafting- Fig. 27, line B should alvvavs be drawn one inch inside fold of goods 
to avoid seam, and to give one inch added width outside hack line, in cape or circle. 



KT»V«.tf*tf ■■ ^W^rmr***?*?**-** 



Fig. 28. 



This form of draft- 
ing is same as Fig. 27, 
except the points of 
shoulder lines are thrown 
apart two inches to admit 
a shoulder seam instead 
of shoulder dart as in 
Fig. T2. 

1. — Proceed as in 
drafting for Fig. 27 as far 
as Eule 3. 

2. — Move both front 
and back Machines down 
on lines A and B until 
the points of shoulder at 
lower end are two inches 
apart. 

3. -Draw lines across 
back neck and down back 
shoulder as in Fig. 27. 

4.-Draw lines across 
front neck bar and down 
shoulder bar, required 
shoulder measure. 
5. — Finish front neck curve and swing circle as in Fig. 27. 

6. — Draw straight diagonal line from junction of lines A and B centrally between lowest 
point of shoulder lines, extending downward to line C. 

7. — Make dot 3 on line C, two inches from lower end of diagonal line. 
8. — Make dot «1 on line C, two inches from diagonal line. (See diagram.) 
9. — Place A corner of dart rule at lower end of shoulder line of back, and draw line D to 
dot 3. 

10- — Place A corner of dart rule (dart rule turned over) at lower end of front shoulder line 
and draw curved line E to dot 4. 

This form of drafting, is especially desirable, where short shoulder capes are wished for 
fur garments or heavy cloths, or suitings, and can be used in any light material, lace, etc. 





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TO THE BUDDINGTON DRESS CUTING MACHINE. 31 



Useful Hints to Dressmakers. 



For shoulder wraps, which change with each incoming season, only a few general rules 
can be given, as Dame Fashion discards all rules in her capricious fancy, and we are only be- 
wildered when we enter upon an investigation of the different shapes and outlines of gar- 
ments intended as wraps for the shoulders, wraps for the street, wraps for the opera, wraps for 
elderly ladies, wraps for misses, wraps for children, etc. But, for those who are at all skillful 
in designing, and those modistes who seem to have the skill to know at a glance what form of 
garment is best suited to the customer, and who, also, have the happy faculty of persuading 
their patrons to listen to the advice of skilled experience, we think a few general rules will be 
all sufficient. And so we say, in the formation of wraps, two items are exceedingly important. 
These are to suit the style to the wearer, and to fit the neck and shoulders. Having secured 
these two points, we find the lower form, or outline of the garment must be fashioned accord- 
ing to the latest novelties in our shop windows, or fashion periodicals. In setting our Cutting 
Machine to the desired neck and shoulder measures, any form of back and front of loose wraps 
may be obtained, with a trifling expenditure of time. By following our rules for sleeve, as 
given in upper portion of Dolman sleeve at Fig. 24, any form of sleeve for such loose wraps, 
may be obtained, etc. If, (as in this season's wraps) a front with one dart is desired, use the 
French Cloak draft, (Fig. 12.) with one dart, placed nearer the front line, if desired, cutting 
off or discarding all unnecessary drafting at side, and only using front drafting as far back as 
second dart, and using back drafting in same manner, discarding all unnecessary drafting, 
only using center back as per dotted line in Fig. 25, crossing dots 2 and 5, to get back 
of wrap. Of course, any form at bottom can be used. 



******** * ******* ****** ** 



Cutting and JVIa ftiticj Sftirts* 

In cutting and making Skirts, facings should be cut to fit the lower part, or bottom, after 
seams have first been sewed, thus producing a smooth, flat surface at bottom, and avoiding 
plaits at top of skirt facing. Braids should always be shrunken before using, as they are likely 
to do so after sewing on the skirt, unless the precaution is taken beforehand. And nothing is 
more unsightly or disagreeable in the outlines of a dress, than a skirt which curls at bottom. 
A facing should never be stitched on at its upper edge, with machine, but always smoothly 
basted down, and overstitched at top edge, to the dress lining. The best manner of sewing on 
braid, is, after basting your facing nicely and overstitching it at top to the skirt in a neat and 
workmanlike manner, the braid should be laid flat on the right side of the dress, with its lower 
edge about H inch from lower edge of skirt and basted smoothly down near its lower edge, 
should be stitched as near as possible to this edge and turned over on the facing and hemmed 
securely to position, with its lower edge thus turned, barely showing like a small cord below 
the dress. All seams should be pressed in woolen fabrics. Silk fabrics should never be pressed, 
with a hot iron, as it takes the fine gloss away, and renders the silk dull and soft. All seams 
in waist and sleeves should be pressed open flat. 



************************ 



JBasttttcj* 

In basting goods on lining in waist and sleeves, a thread should always run along each 
tracing on seams, and across waist line, taking short stitches on right side, and stitches about 
one inch long on lining. This will assist materially in joining the seams in basting the gar- 
ment together. In basting any curved seam where a rounded edge is to fit into a curved edge, 



32 SUPPLEMENT STUDIES 



the rounded edge should be held slightly loose, as in back form, outer edge of sleeve, sewing in 
sleeve, etc., etc. In basting a bias edge on a straight edge, care should be taken not to stretch 
the bias side. When basting on whalebone casing?, they should be held loose. Whalebone 
casings should never be stitched on with machine, but cross stitched on with colored silk, or 
hemmed on by hand. 

**************** ******** 

Sftcifjiftcj ^Basques at JBottom* 

After getting the desired form of one side at bottom, pin securely together at waist line, 
and shape the remaining side by first. 

************************ 

Sfeeves* 

In basting outer seam of sleeve Fig. 5, if the upper piece be too long, commence at lower 
end of seam, and after holding loosely at elbow (do not gather at elbow,) allow the remainder 
to come off at top, if it be not more than § inch. If more than this amount, place a little more 
fullness at elbow. In taking off the extra amount at top. do not trim it too high up. but just 
at the seam. As the line H will be too straight if it is cut off at rounded portion. 

**************** ******** 

draping* 

Xo rules can be given for draping. Draping is not scientific, and cannot. he taught. The 
artistic draper is born, not made. Of course, one can acquire by practice, a certain knowledge', 
or amount of knowledge or skill in draping, and so enable themselves to finish suits and cos- 
tum'es quite skillfully, but it is always desirable to employ a natural draper. It is considered 
quite a fortunate occurrence, if, among our apprentices we find one in a work room, who ex- 
hibits artistic taste in this direction, and all such young ladies will find places where a good 
compensation awaits them, in our first class dressmaking establishments, if they are once 
known as artistic drapers. 

************************ 

Measures* 

For forms who differ in dimensions, or who are not alike at both sides, measures may be 
taken for each side and the difference divided (if not too marked,) and the waist drafted to the 
measure thus divided. Thus: say one under arm be 8, the other be 8-J, use 8^ for the whole, 
etc. This, we consider better than building up a form to increased deformity, by keeping up 
the inclination to differ, by fitting a dress down to the longest side, and up to the shorter, and 
this is especially hurtful in children, who have not yet attained their growth. Each time a 
dress is fitted thus, the inclination to increase the difference in form is increased, and thus 
mischief is the result. Better straighten the form with artificial helps, or, if this cannot be 
done, padding should be used to build both sides alike. If }:>adding is to be used, it should he 
used between goods and lining, if possible, and tacked firmly to lining. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 






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Neck 


DATE 188 

NAME 


Arm's Eye 
Bust 


ADDRESS ... 


Waist 




Front 


STYLE 


Height of Darts 






Back 


PRICE 


Width of Back 




Under Arm 


To Be Finished 


Shoulder 


REMARKS < 


Hip 


MEAS. FOR SLEEVE. 

Arm's Eye 




Sh'lder to Elbow 
Sh'lder to Wrist 




Around Elbow 




Around Wrist 


Every Dressmaker Should Sell Our Machine. 


Skirt 



DATE 188 


Neck 
Arm's Eye 


NAME 


Bust 


ADDRESS 


Waist 




Eront 


STYLE 


Height of Darts 
Back 






Width of Back 


PRICE 






Under Arm 


To Be Finished 


Shoulder 


REMARKS 


Hip 




MEAS. FOR SLEEVE. 

Arm's Eye 




Sh'lder to Elbow 
Sh'lder to Wrist 


W v 

Every Dressmaker Slould Sell Our Machine. 


Around Elbow 
Around Wrist 


Skirt 



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Agents Wanted. Address 1". K. Buddington, £108 Wabash Ave., Chicago 

No lady posessing a Machine can afford to be without our new Measure Book. It preserves each measure, 
name and particulars, in a neat and compact form. It saves time, prevents errors, and will pay for itself many 
tunes. It contains 200 measures, neatly bound in cloth and board, with title in gold on cover. Price, post-paid 
50 cents, One and two cent stamps received in payment for book. 



t^.^^.^'S^^.y.^y.'r.Tvr.y.yjj^.T^y.T.^Tj 



